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THIS guide offers a glimpse of just one of the five main beaches along the coastline of the region of Leiria/Fatima. On the Atlantic coast, Sao Martinho do Porto is the perfect place for a holiday. The shell shaped bay is a natural sandy harbour, protected by surrounding coastal hills and situated in the Estremaduran countryside. This land offers great beauty with miles of sandy beaches, rugged cliffs, sweet smelling pine and eucalyptus forests, mountains, grottos and nature reserves. Although now very much in the twenty first century and within easy reach of the busy capital Lisbon, the area is rich in history with plenty of reminders of Portugal's vivid past. It is still possible to experience the simple, rural life here amongst the orchards and vineyards. In some places traditional costume is worn and the old songs sung. A pleasant atmosphere can always be found in which to discover the splendid variety of regional wines and foods. The region is full of places to visit and included in this guide are three suggested tours from Sao Martinho do Porto to help the visitor explore the locality and to add interest to a holiday.
Once a sleepy fishing village, Sao Martinho is now a favourite summer resort of the Portuguese and the bay is surely one of the most beautiful in Portugal. Bathing here in earlier times was part of the water treatment at the Thermal Hospital in Caldas da Rainha. Nowadays, the sandy protected beach of Sao Martinho offers holiday makers safe water sports and a small fishing fleet still sails to collect the lucrative red seaweed used to make cosmetics and fertiliser. The origins of the village date back to 1257. It was later famous for its ship building activities in the 16th Century during the times of the Great Portuguese navigators, but the real heyday of the village, as a resort, was
during the fifty year span of 1880-1930.
Nestling between the modern buildings on the seafront there are still some of the original villas built at this time. Many were Constructed by returning Portuguese emigrants with the proceeds they brought back from their endeavours in Brazil. One such example is the large red building of Jose Bento da Silva behind the viewpoint that overlooks the bay from the old village.This building once housed a well known school which was instrumental in attracting wealthy families to the area. Nowadays, it is home to the local council offices and the Casa da Cultura, which offers evening classes and exhibitions.
On the road out of Sao Martinho and near the Post Office stands the splendid old Hotel Parque now closed, which was also once a family home. Not far from here is a busy little fruit and vegetable market and there are always restaurants and bars to be found. Many new shops and apartments an now opening as part of the modernisation of the seafront.
Outeiro. the oldest part of the town, winds it's way up to the Water Tower through cobbled streets and tiny houses.
The main church in the old village is dedicated to Sao Martinho and there is also the small coastal chapel of Santo Antonio, which is found near the lighthouse and a pleasant walk from the Old Town or from the Quay. This is a charming chapel built to oversee the harbour mouth and in bad weather fishermen's wives would collect at the chapel praying to Santo Antonio for the safe return of their men. The chapel has lovely blue and white tiles and good views ol the coastline and the bay.
From here you can walk on to the furthest point, the Facho, giving views towards distant Nazare over the beaches of Gralha and Salgado.
Near the small chapel of Santo Antonio there is a track to the Lighthouse. A steep path of steps descends to the Quay and exits near the Children's Holiday Home. At the end ol the ' Quay a tunnel cuts through the cliff to the Atlantic coastline where much of the dramatic rock strata has been eroded by the pounding seas.
The sand dunes along the bay are protected for their flora and fauna. Some older residents remember when the huge dune at Salir do Porto was as high as the surrounding hillside. Still a favourite with children, it is possible to walk from there to the ruins of the Old Customs House found at the base of the cliff. In the past, a part of each incoming cargo was levied as a tax. Next to the ruin there is still a natural spring to be found. Climbing the steep hill above the Customs House walk to the ruins of the Santa Ana chapel situated at the point and see a different view of the town and bay. Be careful of hunters on Thursdays and Sundays from October to December.
The windmills on the hills played an integral part in the once rich grain production of the area.The miller retained part of the flour ground in payment for the use of the mill.
As Sao Martinho do Porto was the only safe harbour for large sailing vessels in the 19th Century, an oxen drawn railway once served to haul cargo and connected the town of Marinha Grande to the sea. Although in disrepair, the old station house still stands at the central crossroads.
Around the corner is a square where the hotels, Al-bergaria Sao Pedro and Residencial Concha stand. From the square a traffic free street leads off into the centre of the town and holds many restaurants and cafes with open air seating and dining.
Evidence of earlier Arab occupation can be found throughout Portugal particularly obvious where the prefix AT occurs in a place name such as Aljubarrota or Alfeizerao and in the language itself with phrases such as "Oxala" meaning "God Willing". In Sao Martinho near the 18th century farm of Quinta dos Avellares the remains of an old Arab well still exists.
A famous house is the small palace of Casa das Pal-meiras (Palm House) where the original palm trees are still evident although the once extensive grounds and gardens are now occupied by modern apartment buildings.There is a local story that the last Portuguese king Dom Carlos made summer visits to the house which was then owned by a family of well known bull breeders.
Local
festivals (festas) go on all year round in all the villages.Whether it be a saints day celebration or fund
raising for the Fire Station and are always evident by the sound of fireworks. In June the town celebrates the festival of Saint Anthony. The beachfront is
lined with stalls selling their wares and there is also a fun fair with music and fireworks on the beach at night. Local associations par the streets and
there is a religious procession from the main church to the seafront.
At the height of the tourist season in August the town is full of visitors and many activities take place. Sailing regattas, music groups, beach gymnastics and football competitions take place. Sailing and diving lessons an also available. For those who are minded there are bullfights to be seen in Nazare.
Around 11th November the town saint is celebrated and more festivities are arranged in the streets with folk dancing, roast chestnuts, wine and 'tasquinhas' (little snacks).
MARINHA GRANDE
Famous worldwide for its glass and crystal making, Marinha Grande is the centre of the glass production which began with the initiative of the Marquis of Pombal when he invited William Stephens an English industrialist to set up in 1769 as the Royal Glass Factory which today houses the Glass Museum in a splendid 18th century manor house. This beautiful collection is open in summer from 10 am - 7 pm (closed Mondays). Also a part of the Glass Route is the Museum of the San-tos Barosa Glass Factory closed on Thursdays, weekends and holidays (visits in the morning by previous appointment). The Glass Route incorporates six factories and some have shops where glass products
are available.
LEIRIA
Travel inland on the 242 road east towards Leiria the administrative centre of the municipality set where the rivers Lena and Lis meet. Dominating the town is an interesting castle originally built in 1135 as a frontier defence against the Moors. It has a striking rectangular panoramic gallery, once a royal balcony with fine columned arches and a splendid view overlooking the town. Below the castle the town has many baroque churches and a 16th century cathedral. Walk through the old town and gardens and enjoy the local delicacies such as Morcelas de Arroz and for those with a sweet tooth,'Brisas do Lis'.
CORTES (side trip)
About 3 miles south of Leiria, Cortes has a pretty water wheel Nora do Moinho and manor houses where famous writers and poets once lived. A museum in honour of Joao Soares the father of Mario Soares former Prime Minister and President of the Republic is open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday between 10am-6pm.
OUREM
Alternatively leave Leiria via the 113 road to Ourem or, if you have time, wander through Santa Eufemia, Carrasqueira with its water mills, through Lapedo Gorge with its lush vegetation to Caranguejeira and join the 113 through olive groves direct to Ourem.
After the damaging earthquake of 1755 the people of Ourem moved down to the fertile lands of the valley below. To reach the Castle of Ourem follow the signs that wind up the hill and stop by the Tourist Office and the Baroque church where the Count of Ourem is buried in the crypt. Local olive oil and honey may be bought at the old shop by the church.The castle which stands on an ancient Roman site was later used in the 9th century by the Moors and a huge underground water cistern build by them still exists there.The present remains were remodelled in the 15th century by the Count of Ourem. The castle s decorative and unusual brick machicolations are based on a Venetian design.
AGROAL (side trip)
Agroal is a pretty village with water mills, lying inland to the east of Ourem if you care to explore further.
fAtima
From Ourem return to the 113 road in the direction of Leiria and turn towards Fatima the major Portuguese religious centre. On 13 May 1917 three children saw a vision of the Virgin and received messages from her, since then pilgrims have travelled here from around the world. The Chapel of the Apparition now stands on the original site of the visitation. Today the town boasts a Basilica and accommodation for thousands of guests. Each year from May until October on the 13th of the month thousands of pilgrims celebrate their faith in candle lit services.
ALJUSTREL (side trip)
Aljustrel is a village south of Fatima where the three children lived. This is now a house museum with religious photographs, COStume and furniture is open to the public.
BATALHA
Leave fatima on the 356 and not far on is the little village of Reguengo do Fetal which has an interesting sanctuary Ermiterio de Nossa Se-nhora do Fetal with 18th century tiles that is well worth a visit. Continuing on, the road winds down to Batalha where, upon winning the famous Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385, King Joao I fulfilled his promise and commenced construction of a cathedral to give thanks for the victory. Now one of the finest sculptured limestone masterpieces of Gothic and Manueline art this Dominican Mosteiro da Batalha was built between 1402-1481. Dom Joao and his English Queen, Philippa of Lancaster daughter of John of Gaunt are buried in the Founders Chapel designed by Huguet, an Irishman. The Royal cloisters are good examples showing how Gothic and Manueline art can work together successfully.The unfinished chapels at the back of the building were initiated in 1435 by Huguet and later, in 1521-57 work was carried out at the request of Dom Manuel, the building being abandoned finally in favour of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos in Lisbon.
CELA VELHA
Taking the 242 road between Sao Martinho do Porto and Nazare turn inland to the village of Cela Velha which dates back to 1430 and visit the privately owned Museum of Sound (Casa das Maquinas Falantes - tel: 21 851 4525 - it is best to check ahead as this museum is not always open) and the Delgado Monument. Nearby close to Barrio, there are Roman ruins overlooking the ancient site of what was once the Pederneira lake. Artifacts found there are stored in the museum at the Junta de Freguesia in Bárrio.
ALCOBAÇA
Travelling on to the important medieval site of Alcobaca said to be named after the two rivers that meet in the valley, the Alcoa and the Baca. Here stands the imposing World Heritage monument the Mostei-ro de Alcobaça, thought to be the best example of an 11th century Cistercian Abbey. The cloisters, monks quarters and extraordinary kitchen must be seen. In the main church the impressive tombs of the famous royal lovers Pedro and Ines are works of art carved in stone in 14th century Gothic sepulchral tradition. Alcobaça's souvenir shops offer decorated ceramics in the local style with 17th century patterns and also brightly coloured handkerchiefs called 'chita' particular to Alcobaca.
CÓS (side trip)
The 13th century Mosteiro de Còs lies 10 miles north of Alcobaca and has a majestic interior which is presently under restoration (access may be gained by asking at the shop opposite). Beautiful views can be seen from the 17th century Hermitage of Santa Rita on the hillside overlooking the Monastery.
ALJUBARROTA
Leaving Alcobaca towards Aljubarrota on the NS visit the The Wine Museum (Museu doVinho) on your right showing the history of wine production. A few miles on up the hill is Aljubarrota a pretty village with recently restored 1 8th century architecture and churches.The local legendary heroine a bakeress called, Brites de Almeida, attacked escaping Castillians with her wooden bread shovel after the historically important 14th Century battle fought nearby At the actual site some miles further on an interesting Military Museum dedicated to the battle can be found at Sao Jorge on the Nl near Batalha
PORTO
DE MOS
From Aljubarrota follow the signs to Porto de Mós (mós means mill stone) named after the many water mills in the area and visit the unusual Castle remodelled in the 15th century by the Count of Ourem on an ancient fortified site. This fantasy castle, overlooking the town with its twin pointed turrets and glistening green tiles can be seen from far off. Walk through the old town and visit the churches and museum.
CAVES
Leave Porto de M6s on the 243 onto the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros with its spectacular views and visit the fascinating Caves (Grutas) of Mira de Aire, Alvados and Santo Antonio. The latter is claimed to be one of the largest in Europe where one may experience a fairytale subterranean world. The caves were first discovered by two workmen who followed a bird through a crack in the rocks. Close to the Santo Antonio grotto is a Donkey Reserve which offers donkey rides and day treks. More information about hill walking and the Serras de Aire and Candeeiros Park can be found at the PNSAC Exhibition Centre in Mira d'Aire and at the ECOTECA-Serras de Aire e Candeeiros in the Jardin Municipal (Municipal Gardens) in Porto de Mos.
DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS
Return to the scenic 243 road travelling south east towards Mira de Aire, take the 360 left and at Boleiros turn right on the 357 towards Bairro. Here at the most northerly point of the Serra de Aire mountains is the town of Bair-ro where a vast area has been excavated in an old quarry to uncover acient Dinosaur footprints petrified in pre-historic marshland at the Pegadas de Dinossaurios visitor centre and picnic area. The footprints are more clearly visible when the sun is at a low angle. (Summer opening hours 10am- 12.30am and 2pm-8pm)
This route introduces some of the lesser known beaches of the region. Bach has its own style and character, offering variety for the adventurous.
North of the beautiful bay beach of Sao Martinho do Porto lies GRALHA designated a Golden beach. Encompassed by steep sided cliffs it is not easily accessible but has pleasant walks once down below.
SALGADO
The next beach along is Salgado, this is the place for those that want to tan. Broad and long the white sands stretch all the way to Nazare and hangliders often ride from the cliffs above. However the bathing here can be dangerous and although there is a lifeguard in summer the sea is powerful with a strong undertow and should be approached with caution.
Above the popular resort of Nazare and its hilltop partner Sítio lies the coast road to PRAIA DO NORTE with
its nearby Water Park. This coast road gives access to many of the secret beaches that lie along this part of the region.
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QUINTA DA FALCA
Two miles north of Nazare there is a new complex overlooking the beach with a modern restaurant and ample parking. There is no beach access but this would be an excellent place for a lunch with sea views.
LEGUA
It is possible to drive down a steep road to Legua beach which has a lifeguard in summer. This is a comparitively newly developed beach with a few villas and apartments and two small bars.
A mile further on is VALE FURADO, a startling beach reached only by foot
down a winding track between houses that seem built into the steep gorge.The
beach is impressive with the strangely shaped eroded cliffs trapping the sun.
There is often a rock protected pool safe for swimming and at the top of the
track is a small parking area and a bar.
Continuing through pine forests, where resin is collected to make varnish, and then passing a large camping area, the road sweeps down to the small village of PAREDES DA VITORIA. This is a pleasant open beach with some bars and a restaurant. It is a great favourite in summer and good for surfing and bodyboarding.
POLVEIRA is about two miles from Paredes with parking on a long sloping
area. It has excellent views and is separated by a large rocky outcrop. There
are rock pools with sea urchins and crabs. It is a great favorite with
fishermen and touring visitors. There is a small bar and toilet facilities.
PEDRA
DO OURO
is a relatively new village full of flats and apartments with plenty of accommodation.There is easy access to the beach by way of an asphalt road. Although only basic facilities at beach level, the beach is very long and edged with black volcanic formations.
Sao Pedro do MoeI is a well established holiday town and is built in a hollow that funnels down to the beach where there is safe bathing and plenty of entertainment.
Higher up, next to the Penedo da Saudade Lighthouse is the small beach of PRAIA DA CONCHA which has incredible vertical rock formations rising up from the sea.
PRAIA VELHA beach is enjoyed by families in summer. The River Sao Pedro runs out of the surrounding forest where picnickers enjoy the shade and meanders down through the beach creating a play lagoon for children andnon- swimmers. This beach is registered as a Golden Beach. The Old Beach rest a u ra nt and bar complex often has live music and another restaurant "O Pai dos Frangos" lies at the south end of the beach.
North of here are the two beaches of Praia da Vieira and Praia do Pedrogao and furthest away is the last Golden beach of the region OSSO DA BALEIA. All of which make up vast stretches of beautiful sands that reach from north to south all along the coast.
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SHOP OPENING HOURS
Monday to Saturday
0900 -1300 and 1500-1900 POST OFFICE (Mon-Fri)
0900-12.30 and 14.30-18.00
BANK (Mon-Fri) 0830-1500
Cash machine (CAIXA MULTIBANCO)
Withdrawals (LEVANTAMENTOS)
FRUIT MARKET
May to September 0730 to 1300, October to April (Tuesday to Sunday) 0730 to 1300
FEAST DAYS (Festas)
Santo Antonio 13 June
Sao Martinho 11 November
PHONE CALLS
Phone calls can be made from most cites. Street call boxes usually have directions in English. Phone cards (CREDIFONE) are available in Post Offices and Newsagents.
TOILETS
Public toilets are hard to find but restaurants and cafes are usually accommodating. Sometimes it is necessary to ask for keys (CHAVES).
CAFES What to ask for? Drinks - BICA (Small strong black coffee) GA-LAO (Milky coffee served in a glass) MEIA DE LEITE (Half milk coffee) CAKIOCA (Black coffee with more water added) CHA (Tea) SUMO (Fruit juice)
Snacks - SANDUICHE (Sandwich) QUEIJO (Cheese) FIAMBRE (ham) TOSTA (Toast) RISSOIS (Meat/Fish/Prawn and Potato deep fried) CACHORRO (Hot dog)
Sweets - GELADO(S) Ice Cream(s) PUDIM FLAN Creme Caramel PASTEL DE NATA small Custard Tart
RESTAURANTS
A CASA
AvaMarginal, Sao Martinho do Porto
Telephone. 262 98 96 33
a pirâmide
Variante de Nazare, Sao Martinho do Porto Tel, 262 98 00 37
AVOZINHA
Est. N°8 -Vale de Maceira,Alfeizerao Tel: 262 99 96 41
CARAVELA
Rua Candido dos Reis, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 92 94
-
GAIVOTA
Rua Jose Bento da Silva, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 97 55
*
GRANADA
AvaMarginal, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 96 95
o amável
Urbanizacao dos Medros, Sao Martinho do Porto Tel: 262 98 96 43
O FAROL
AvaMarginal, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 93 99
O LARGO
Largo Vitorino Frois, Sao Martinho do Porto Tel: 96 605 16 02
O PESCADOR
Rua Candido dos Reis, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 96 04
TIPICO DA SERRA
Serra dos Mangues, Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 98 95 14
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HOTELS
ALBERGARIA SAO PEDRO
Largo Vitorino Frois, 7,2460-683 Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 985 020 Fax: 262 985 021
ALBERGARIA SANTO ANTONIO DA BAIA
Rua dos BonibeirosVoluntarios, 2460-654 Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 989 666 Fax: 262 989 838
Email: webmaster@albergaria-stantonio.net Web Page: www.albergaria-stantonio.net
PENSAO CONCHA (Residential Cat. 2)
Largo Vitorino Frois, 21, 2460 Sao Martinho do Porto Tel: 262 985 010 Fax: 262 985 Oil
PENSAO) AMERICANA (Residential Cat. 3)
Rua I). lose de Saldanha,2, 2460 Sao Martinho do Porto Tel: 262 989 170 Fax: 262 989 349
YOUTH HOSTEL
POUSADA DA JUVENTUDE DE S. MARTINHO DO PORTO
Estrada Nacional, N°8,2460-191 Alfeizerao
Tel/Fax: 262 999 506
Email: movijovem@mail.telepac.pt
CAMPING
COLINA DO SOL
EN 8 45 km
Serra dos Mangues, 2460-697 Sao Martinho do Porto
Tel: 262 989 764 Fax: 262 989 763
Email: geral@colinadosol.com
Web Page: www.colinadosol.com
USEFUL CONTACTS
NATIONAL EMERGENCY NUMBER 112 (English/French/Portuguese spoken)
LOCAL POLICE (POLICIA) 262 989 190 Avenida Marechal Carmona, No. 12, Sao Martinho do Porto
AMBULANCE SERVICE (BOMBEIROS VOLUNTARIOS) 262 989 201 Rua dos BombeirosVoluntarios, Sao Martinho do Porto
CHEMIST (Farmacia Central) 262 989 128 Rua Conde de Avelar, No. 17, Sao Martinho do Porto
NATIONAL FREE TOURIST INFORMATION 800 296 296
SAO MARTINHO TOURIST OFFICE (Posto de InformacaoTurismo) 262 989 110
TAXIS 262 989 891
BRITISH CONSULATE 21 392 4160
NETHERLANDS EMBASSY 21 391 4900
FRENCH EMBASSY 21 393 9100
GERMAN EMBASSY 21 881 0210
BELGIAN EMBASSY 21 317 0510
DANISH EMBASSY 21 351 2960
ITALIAN EMBASSY 21 351 5320
Regiao de Turismo Leiria/Fatima Jardim Luis de Camoes Apartado 1115 2401-801 Leiria Portugal
Tel: (+351) 244 848 770
Fax: (+351) 244 848 779
Email: info@rt-leiriafatima.pt Website: www.rt-leiriafatima.pt
